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Crater
Lake
Photo by William Sullivan
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Hike
to the Watchman, perhaps the best viewpoint in Crater Lake National
Park.
By
William Sullivan
About
the Hike: High on Crater Lake's western rim, the Watchman's
lookout tower commands an eagle's-eye view across the amazingly
blue lake to Wizard Island. The steep little climb up the Watchman
is one of the most popular paths in the national park. It's also
short enough that you might want to extend the hike by taking an
adjacent 2-mile path around Hillman Peak to a viewpoint above the
Devils Backbone. Pets are banned on all park trails.
Difficulty:
The easy 1.6-mile trip to the Watchman gains 413 feet of elevation.
Season: Open mid-July through October.
Getting
There: The Watchman Trail begins at a large, rail-fenced parking
area and viewpoint on Crater Lake's Rim Drive. The parking area
is not well marked, but you'll find it by driving 4 miles north
of Rim Village or 2.2 miles south of the junction with the north
entrance road.
Fees:
Crater Lake National Park charges an entrance fee of $10 per day
per car, or $25 per season.
Hiking
Tips: From the parking area, follow a paved sidewalk along the
highway 100 yards to the actual trailhead. Look here for the fuzzy
seedheads of western pasque flower and the blue trumpets of penstemon.
The
wide path - a portion of the long-abandoned 1917 rim road - traverses
a rockslide of giant cream-colored boulders made of dacite.
At
the 0.3-mile mark, a snowfield lingers across the trail until August.
Turn left at a junction just beyond the snow and climb 0.4 mile
amid struggling mountain hemlock, white lupine, and patches of pinkish
5-petaled phlox. The summit tower, built in 1932, is staffed each
summer with friendly rangers who help spot fires and answer hikers'
questions. Soak in the view from the lookout's stone patio before
heading back to your car.

Keep
your eyes open for Clark's Nutcracker - native
to this area. It is the only bird species to be named
after William Clark of the Lewis & Clark expedition. |
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William
Sullivan is a veteran Oregon journalist and
author with 12 published books on Oregon travel, history
and hiking.
This
hike is in the Southern
Oregon Region.
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If
you'd like more exercise and different views, hike right on past
your car and up a sandy ridge to find a trail that opened in 1995.
This route skirts Hillman Peak for 2 miles, passing wildflower meadows,
snow patches, rockfields with cat-sized marmots, and views across
the Pumice Desert to the Three Sisters.
If
you can't arrange to shuttle a car to the far end of the section-a
lakeview pullout 2.2 miles from the Watchman's parking lot-turn
back when the trail reaches a dramatic Crater Lake viewpoint beside
the Devils Backbone. This craggy wall protruding from the lake's
rim is a volcanic dike, formed when magma squeezed into a vertical
crack inside ancient Mt. Mazama.
History:
The Watchman won its name in 1886, when the U.S. Geological Survey
set up a watch point here while surveyors in a boat sounded the
lake with a reel of piano wire. Other names that stuck from that
1886 expedition are Cleetwood Cove (for the boat) and Dutton Cliff
(for its captain). The survey recorded a maximum lake depth of 1996
feet-a figure that has since been corrected by sonar to 1958 feet.
Geology:
The rocks exposed along the trail are dacite, originally part of
a 50,000-year-old lava flow on Crater Lake's predecessor, a large
volcano known to geologists as Mt. Mazama. After Mt. Mazama blew
up its summit in a cataclysmic eruption 7700 years ago, the old
lava flow was left as the Watchman, a crest on the gaping caldera's
rim. Since then the caldera has sprouted a cinder cone (Wizard Island)
and gradually filled with water.
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